Behind the Cork™ - Red Wines of Maremma Toscana

Red Wines of Maremma Toscana

These red wines from the Maremma Toscana sub-region of Italy’s Tuscany are considered “Super Tuscans” using non-native Italian grapes and/or blends.

Many fine examples of Super Tuscans come from the region of Maremma, on the Tyrrhenian Sea coast in the southwest of Tuscany.

Here are five wonderful examples:

2017 Cantina I Vini di Maremma Sangiovese ($12)

This wine is a blend of “no less than 40% of Sangiovese with other red grapes according the production protocol restrictions” of the region. It was fermented on the skins and aged in concrete tanks. It is medium garnet in color with aromas of black cherry and plum. On the palate it has deep, rich fruit flavors, medium acidity, medium-low tannin and a hint of caramel on the finish.

2016 I Cavallini Pause Merlot ($18)

This wine is produced from 100% Merlot that is hand harvested and undergoes spontaneous fermentation in small barrels with indigenous yeast for four to six weeks. It is then aged sur lie for 12 months in barrels with weekly battonage. It is medium garnet in color with an aroma of black cheery. On the palate it has distinct black cherry flavor with just a hint of tartness on the finish.

2016 Fattoria di Magliano Perenzo Syrah ($23)

This wine is 100% Syrah that is fermented in stainless steel vats for 20 to 25 days. It was aged 12-24 months in medium toasted oak barrels that have a minimum of 24 months seasoning. It is pale ruby in color with a delicate aroma of black fruit. On the palate it has good depth of character and complexity, medium tannin and a nice finish.

2013 Villa Pinciana Terraria ($24)

This wine is a blend of 45% Sangiovese, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petite Verdot. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for 15 months in small French oak barrels. It is deep garnet in color with aromas of black fruit and spice. On the palate it has flavors of cherry and raspberry, medium tannin and good acidity.

2015 Prelius Prile ($12)

This wine is produced from 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot. It was barrel aged in French oak for 18 months. It is medium ruby in color with delicate aromas of black fruit and spices. On the palate it shows sweet red cherry and black fruit flavors, good depth of character, with moderate tannin and acidity.

Disclosure of Wine Sample Submission: I received these samples at no cost for review. The opinions expressed are entirely my own.

Samples Provided by Francesco Mazzei, President of the ‘Consortium for the protection of Maremma Toscana Wines’ (via ZEDCOMM)

A Break from Tradition in Italy: The Super Tuscan Wines

Much like France, Italy has a long tradition of wine. In the 1960s, Italy formalized their wine appellation system modeled after the French system. Under this system, each wine region in Italy was required to operate under strict rules for the types of grapes they were allowed to grow and how their wines were to be produced.

Under this system, native Italian grapes were required to be used in Italian wines. These native grapes included Sangiovese, Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Montepulciano. But these regulations were quickly criticized as being overly restrictive and led small groups to push-back against them. By the end of the ’60s, these groups were producing wine blends with non-native grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

But, these producers of wines using non-native Italian grapes were forced to bottle their wines using the generic title of Vino da Tavola (Table Wine) that is associated with Italy’s lowest-quality wines. Instead of settling for this, they chose to unofficially call their wines “Super Tuscans” so as to distinguish them from inexpensive table wines.

Finally, in 1992, the Italian government created a new wine classification called “Toscana IGT” for these Super Tuscan wine blends.

Many fine examples of Super Tuscans come from the region of Maremma, on the Tyrrhenian Sea coast in the southwest of Tuscany. Look for several in the next Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week feature. Cheers!

The Ciliegiolo Grape

The Ciliegiolo (cheeli-oh-JOL-oh) grape gets its name from an Italian word for cherry, a fruit that the Ciliegiolo grape resembles in its wine’s aroma and flavor.

Although traditionally used as a blending grape in Chianti, since around 2000 it has been used to make varietal wines that range from light (somewhat like a Pinot Noir) to big and complex.

Wines made from the Ciliegiolo grape tend to be somewhat low-acid and low-alcohol. It does not need much bottle aging and is quite drinkable young.

In Tuscany, Ciliegiolo is now being used to make fuller, more structured varietal wines, especially in southern Maremma Toscana.

Recent DNA analysis has shown that Ciliegiolo and a grape called ‘Calabrese di Montenuovo’ are the parents of Sangiovese, but further testing seems to be needed to definitively determine the ancestry.

Watch for the next Behind the Cork™ Wine Blog that will feature four Ciliegiolo-based wines from Maremma Toscanna. Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ - Alberto Motta Ansonica

2019 Alberto Motta Ansonica ($23)

Ansonica (an-so-NIC-ah) may not be a grape variety that you are familiar with. I was not. And, the wine region of Maremma Toscana in Italy may not be a region you are familiar with. But, both are quite interesting.

When researching the Ansonica grape, I learned that it is also known as Inzolia. Again, probably not a grape you are familiar with. As I learned, Ansonica is a white-wine grape that most likely originated in Sicily that likely found its way there from Greece. And, while it is mainly grown in Sicily, it now also appears in some Tuscan whites. But, it is most famous as one of the grape varieties used in the production of Marsala fortified wines.

This Alberto Motta Ansonica is deep gold in color with an extremely delicate aroma. On the palate, it has a richness to it as well as a faint nutty flavor along with light citrus notes and good acidity on the finish. Maybe the best way to describe this wine is somewhat like an un-oaked Chardonnay. But, of course, different.

This was an interesting little journey into an unfamiliar grape. And, an unfamiliar region. So, check out the Maremma Toscana region of Italy (a sub-region of Tuscany) and stay tuned for a couple more Behind the Cork™ blogs on red wines from this up and coming region. Cheers!

Disclosure of Wine Sample Submission: I received this sample at no cost for review. The opinions expressed are entirely my own.

Sample Provided by Francesco Mazzei, President of the ‘Consortium for the protection of Maremma Toscana Wines’ (via ZEDCOMM)