Do You Know Primitivo?

It's always fun to find and try new and different wines. And, when it comes to exploring "Old World Wines" it can be even more of an adventure. That's what happened to me when studying the shelves of Italian wines. I came across a completely unknown wine called Primitivo (Prim-ah-TEE-voh).  Excited by this new find, I bought a bottle and tried it.  It was nice. It had a good bold fruity flavor with a bit of tannin and nice finish. I thought I'd discovered yet another great wine.  But as soon as I did a little research into this newly found wine I discovered that I'd actually met an old friend.

Primitivo, meaning "early one" due to its relative early ripening, does have heritage from Italy. It is a well-known wine from the Puglia region that is located in the far southeastern corner of the 'boot' of Italy. But it is believed that it arrived in Italy via Croatia, just across the Adriatic Sea.  And, it is a naturally cloned version of the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski.

It wasn't until DNA testing in the 1990's that it was revealed that not only was Primitivo a clone of Crljenak Kastelanski, but American Zinfandel was also a naturally cloned relative. So, Primitivo and Zinfandel are actually the direct clones of the Croatian grape and essentially the same.

Interesting enough, in Europe, where wine restrictions are seemly very strict, Primitivo and Zinfandel may legally be used interchangeably. But, in the U.S., labeling laws don't allow interchangeability. So, it's possible that a U.S. made wine could be labeled as a Primitivo-Zinfandel blend.

But, for all intents and purposes, Primitivo and Zinfandel are the same grape. Though the Italian Primitivo is often somewhat different than the California Zinfandel.  This is usually attributed to the growing conditions such as the soil and the weather (terrior) and the winemaking process, not the grape.

So, if you are a Zinfandel lover, be sure and pick up a bottle of Primitivo. The Italian Primitivo wines likely to be lighter in style than California Zinfandel, but still have the great depth of flavors just like Zinfandel. And, you'll typically find great values on these wines from Italy.  Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week - Layer Cake Primitivo ($13)

This wine from Puglia Italy is a Primitivo, but as stated in the blog, is also allowed to be labeled as a Zinfandel by European laws. This is a very accessible Italian Primitivo that is made very much in the style of California Zinfandels.  It has nice bright fruit and a smooth finish, with just a hint of earthiness and minerals from the ancient seabeds of Puglia Italy.

The Never Ending Search for Great Wine

A few years back as I started to become interested in wines, I was searching for a really great wine that I could dependably go back to time after time. While the search for a great wine was a fun adventure, it never seemed to converge on a wine that I could always go back to and enjoy as much as the first time.  As it turns out, that was just the start of the never ending search for a great wine.

Part of the reason that it's difficult, if not impossible, to find a consistently good wine year after year is the very nature of wine making.  Each year's harvest is different, with weather playing a huge role. The spring weather determines how many of the grapevine buds will turn into bunches of grapes. And the fall sun or rain determines how well the grapes will ripen. And not only is there the variability of the grape harvest, but there are all the factors that go into fermentation and aging of the wines.  All these variables make for ever-changes nuances in wines.

Then you come to understand that there's yet another factor.  As you make your way along the journey in search of a great wine, you get exposed to more and more wines. And in this process, your pallet changes.  What was once a really nice wine becomes a so-so wine. So you keep searching, trying to find that one really great wine.

And to this day, I'm sure that there has to be that one great wine out there. Somewhere.  So I'll keep searching. But I also realize that it's a never ending search for great wine.  Enjoy your search. Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week -  Opolo Vineyard Summit Creek Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)

This wine from Paso Robles CA is a great find. Described as having defined tannins with flavors of cherry, blackberry, toasted almonds and vanilla this Cabernet is a winner.  A super wine to enjoy grilled meats, cheeses, or just by itself.  Check this one out!

Bordeaux - The Left Bank

Last time we explored the Right Bank of Bordeaux with its Merlot-based red blends, primarily from the appellations of Saint Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac. Next, its over to the Left Bank.

Located west of the Gironde and Garonne Rivers, the Left Bank is also known for its red blends. The two primary appellations for red blends on the Left Bank are Médoc and Graves.  These appellations are further broken down as follows:

  • Médoc
    • Pauillac
    • Margaux
    • St-Estéphe
    • St-Julien
    • Haut- Médoc (this 'fifth' region is a receptacle for less expensive wines from Médoc that are grown outside the other four regions)
  • Graves
    • Pessac- Léognan
    • Sauternes

The Left Bank blends are based on Cabernet Sauvignon.  And, like the Right Bank, these blends may include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. But typically, the Left Bank blends are comprised of 70% or more Cabernet Sauvignon with small fractions of the other, usually to soften the final product.

While the Left Bank is typically thought to have the "better" wines, they certainly have the more expensive wines.  And wines that are well suited to aging.

But sometimes these Cabernet Sauvignon blends are described as a bit bitter when young.  This is largely due to the high tannin levels in the Cabernet Sauvignon. And these wines tannins 'soften' as they age.  Some might ask "Why pay a premium for a Bordeaux that's bitter initially and then have to age it for it to be really good?"  And I suppose that's a question that can only be answered by actually experiencing an aged Bordeaux.

The Left Bank of Bordeaux is the only bank to produce white wines. And these are based on Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle.  But the most famous white wine-producing region is Sauternes, a sub-region within Graves. These are tropical fruit flavored sweet wines made from botrytized grapes. And before you say "I don't like sweet wines" you really should give the Sauternes wines a chance. If you can afford to purchase one, that is.  These wines can easily go for $100 to $1000 for a bottle.

The sweet wines of Sauternes are extremely expensive to make, for several reasons. First, there is a lot of risk involved in leaving ripe grapes on the vines for an extended period of time to achieve botrytized grapes. Second, grape pickers must be paid to make the multiple passes through the vineyards, searching for grape bunches affected by botrytis. Third, Sauternes wines are usually aged in expensive oak barrels for 18 and 36 months. And on top of all this, there is no guarantee that botrytis will develop in the vineyards at all, since it is entirely dependent on specific climatic conditions. So, in some years, almost no Sauternes wine is produced at all.

So there's a quick look at the Left Bank of Bordeaux. And while Bordeaux is a famous wine-producing region of France, no discussion of French wines would be complete without addressing other important regions such as Burgundy, Champagne, the Rhône Valley, the Loire Valley and Chateaunuf de Pape.  And I'll get to those in future blogs.  Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week - Chateau Bellegrave Bordeaux Médoc ($15)

This red blend is from Médoc which is an appellation on the Left Bank of Bordeaux in France.  Being from the Left Bank, it is a blend, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an affordable Left Bank Bordeaux that is big and bold without being overly tannic. Great with a steak!

Bordeaux - The Right Bank

Bordeaux is one of the greatest wine producing regions in the world. It is divided into two distinct regions referred to as the "Right Bank" and "Left Bank" depending on which side of the Dordogne River it is located.  Different dominant grapes used in each of its wines also define the two banks.  In Bordeaux, the name of the game is red blends not varietal superstars. So it's the combination of the grapes, soil, and climate (terroir) that defines the wines. 

In Bordeaux, wines do not identify the grapes used in their production on the label. Rather, the appellation where the grapes are grown will be listed. This can be quite confusing at first when trying to decide on purchasing a Bordeaux.  But let me try to make it a bit simpler. 

First, there are several appellations on the Right Bank or 'The Libournais' as the French call it.  The three primary appellations are Saint Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac. If you can remember these three you can almost always determine if a Bordeaux is from the Right Bank versus the Left Bank.  But that's only half the equation. 

The other thing you need to know is about the grapes of Bordeaux. Each of the two banks of Bordeaux focuses on different grapes as their primary component. On the Right Bank, the dominant grape used in their blends is Merlot. On the Left Bank, the dominant grape is Cabernet Sauvignon. Other grapes are typically blended with these grapes and, by local regulations, may include Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. 

So now armed with these two pieces of information, to first-order, you should be able to figure out that a red wine from Saint Émilion, Pomerol or Fronsac will be a Merlot-based blend. All the other red blends from Bordeaux will use Cabernet Sauvignon as the primary grape.

And, by the way, there are no white wines produced on the Right Bank. In Bordeaux, the whites come from the Left Bank, which we'll explore next time.

So, if you are like me, you'll want to have these simple clues with you when you are shopping for wines from Bordeaux.  And I'd suggest trying a sampling of wines from the Right Bank to really get a sense of how the Merlot grape is used in their wines.

Next time we'll take a look at the Left Bank. But for now, pull the cork on a Bordeaux from one of the Right Bank appellations (remember Saint Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac) and begin to develop an understanding of the wines of this region. Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week - Tertre du Moulin Bordeaux ($15)

This red blend is from Saint Émilion which is an appellation on the Right Bank of Bordeaux in France.  Being from Saint Émilion, it is predominately a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. A great value for a wine with a soft, smooth mouthfeel. Goes great with meats and cheeses.

What is a Bordeaux Wine?

Nothing about French wine seems to be straightforward or simple. But once you get to know the various wine regions of France it becomes a bit clearer.

In the past couple of postings I've touched on the French wine region of Burgundy.  I discussed that there are Bourgogne Rouge (red) and Bourgogne Blanc (white) wines.  The reds of Burgundy are primarily Pinot Noir with the exception that the sub-region of Beaujolais produces red wines from the Gamay grape.  The Chardonnay grape dominates the white wines of Burgundy, with all wines from the Chablis sub-region being produced from Chardonnay.

So now let's take a look at the wines from another famous wine region in France, Bordeaux.  Here, more than 90% of the wines produced are reds. The primary grapes used in red Bordeaux wines are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. But, Petite Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere are also permitted to be used.

The white wines, again comprising less than 10% of Bordeaux's production, are made from the Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  This is quite a contrast to the not so distant past. Prior to the 1960's, Bordeaux's vineyards were dominated by white wine producing grapes.  Consumer tastes changed and red wine production methods improved and now we see the reds dominating Bordeaux wines.

Within Bordeaux, the geography is such that it is divided into the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to which side of the Gironde River, or its two smaller rivers, they are located. And each of the Left and Right banks have multiple sub-regions that all produce great wines based on different grapes.

And, there is one other key sub-region in Bordeaux. It is called Sauternes and it is famous for its sweet dessert wines made mostly of Semillon grape, with some Sauvignon Blanc.

There's a lot to cover in Bordeaux. So next time we'll start exploring the sub-regions of Bordeaux in a bit more detail. For now, cheers!

Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week - Château de Belcier ($10)

This Bordeaux is a blend of 69% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec.  This is very typical of the Bordeaux blends of the Right Bank with its focus on Merlot. It is from the sub-region of Bordeaux called "Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux."

As you can see from the label, it is "Mis en Bouteille au Château" meaning it was bottled at the estate or on the property of the winery. But, the "Grand Vin de Bordeaux" is an unregulated term.  It is most often used as a way for a château to indicate that this is their best wine, a step up from the second bottling.