The New Grapes to be Included in Bordeaux Wine Blends

There are many different types of grapes grown in Bordeaux and used in their famous wines.

In the past, there were just six varietals allowed for making red wine in Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménre. White wines were limited to the use of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Gris, Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Merlot Blanc, Mauzac, and Ondenc.

But in January of 2021, the governing body in Bordeaux allowed four new red varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets, and Arinarnoa, as well as two white varieties, Alvarinho and Liliorila. This was done to give more viticultural options to grape growers to address climate change and combat less hospitable conditions. The new grapes will be listed officially as "new varieties of interest for adapting to climate change". This puts them third in the hierarchy behind "major" and "additional" grapes in official documents. This status will again be reviewed in 2031.

Under current restrictions, usage of the new varieties is limited. They may only account for five percent of the planted vineyard area, and a maximum of ten percent of a wine blend. Because of France's wine labeling regulations, these new varieties will not appear on Bordeaux labels. So, these changes to battle climate change will go relatively unnoticed for now.

Although you may not notice any real change in Bordeaux wine blends, they are changing as the world’s climate is changing. Cheers!

French Wine - Simplified

One of the most confusing subjects for American consumers is trying to understand wines from France. The wine labeling system in France is mostly based on region or appellation, not by the type of grape used to produce the wine.

So, here are some broad generalities regarding the wines from the various regions in France:

Bordeaux - The majority of wines from Bordeaux are red blends. The Left Bank wines are generally based on Cabernet Sauvignon while the Right Bank wines are based on Merlot. These blends may include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec and Carmenère. Bordeaux's white wines are generally blends of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc. Muscadelle may also be used in small quantities.

Champagne - This is the name of the world’s most famous sparkling wine. And, yes, it’s from the Champagne region of France. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier (both of which are purple grapes) and Chardonnay are the primary grape varieties used to make Champagne.

Burgundy - The red wines from Burgundy are Pinot Noir and the white wines are Chardonnay.

Beaujolais - This region is famous for wines made from the Gamay grape.

Loire Valley - This region’s red wine is dominated by Cabernet Franc but the Loire Valley also grows Pinot Noir, Malbec (you may see it as Côt) and Gamay. White wines are Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Muscadet (also known as Melon de Bourgogne) and Chardonnay.

Rhone Valley - This region is best known for its red blends of Granache, Syrah and Mourvèdre (GSM) and white blends of Marsanne and Roussanne.

There are plenty of books completely devoted to the study of French wines. But, if you’re just walking down the wine aisle trying to decide on a French wine, I hope these simple notes help. Cheers!

More on the Wine Term "Cru" regarding the French Regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux

Last time we started exploring the word “Cru” as it relates to wine. The simple translation of Cru is growth. This is really referring to a special or unique wine growing area. While this area can be a single growing site, it can also be a larger region of land that includes many vineyards and wineries. Again, that’s the simple explanation. Now, let’s explore the term Cru at the next level - a Cru in France. Specifically, Burgundy and Bordeaux.

The wine classification system in Burgundy is somewhat simple. All vineyards in Burgundy are classified into a Cru hierarchy. The ‘Grand Cru’ is the highest level. There are 33 Grand Crus in Burgundy that are their own appellation. Premier Cru wines are a step below the Grand Cru and hence are less expensive and typically a much better value. Below the Premier Cru are the ‘Village’ wines and the generic Bourgogne category at the bottom of the hierarchy. As I said, pretty simple.

Then there’s Bordeaux. Unfortunately, the term Cru is used much differently in Bordeaux.

Bordeaux uses a system called the Grand Cru Classé quality classification system, and it’s tied to a specific Chateau or Estate (i.e., winery), rather than a vineyard. This system was established in 1855 and applies only to Left Bank Chateaus in the regions of Médoc, Graves and Sauternes. In these three regions, vineyards are ranked from first to fifth growths. And, believe it or not, these rankings are based on the vineyards’ value as they were in 1855!

So, the first growths are called Premiers Crus, while second through fifth growth Crus are individually numbered Crus classés. Are you still with me?

Then, there’s the Right Bank of Bordeaux. While the Pomerol region isn’t classified at all, the Saint-Émilion region really steps up the confusion level one more notch.

St.-Émilion has two Chateau-based quality classifications, except that there’s a separate third category. At the top of the system is Premier Grands Crus Classés followed by Grands Crus Classés. The third category, Cru Borgeois, is not tied to a specific chateau or geographical subzone.

So, if you made it this far in this discussion of the French Crus of Burgundy and Bordeaux, thank you. If your head is spinning, don’t worry. Me too! This is a bit of a complex subject.

For more information on the wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux, please follow these links.

Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ - 2016 Écluse Ensemble

2016 Écluse Ensemble ($48)

This Bordeaux red blend from Écluse in Paso Robles is truly an ensemble of varietals. It’s produced from 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cab Franc, 15% Petit Verdot, 14% Merlot, 14% Malbec and 7% Carignane. A little bit of everything!

And the result is quite tasty. It has bright red fruit flavors such as cherry but also has hints of pepper, licorice and other spices.

Écluse has masterfully blended this wine to be big in flavor and smooth on the finish.

If you’re passing through Paso Robles on Highway 101, Écluse is just a couple of minutes away and well worth the stop. And, you’re likely to find the warm and friendly owner Steve Lock (Lock is Écluse in French) in the serving room.

This is a really good one! Cheers!

How Well Do Wines Hold Up with Time?

Wine Enthusiast Magazine, February 2018

Last time we looked at the factors that make a wine more capable of bottle aging. And, somewhat surprisingly, there are very few wines that actually hold up well in the bottle, even with proper storage.  So then, what wines do hold up?

The results reported in Wine Enthusiast's 2018 Vintage chart (February 2018) are very revealing. As you might expect, wines from the Bordeaux region of France can hold up very well. And, most of the wines from Bordeaux are still currently at their peak dating back to 1998.  Twenty years!  But beyond that, the vintage guide suggests that wines before 1998 are likely in decline and may be undrinkable.

Then there are the California wines.  Again, as you might expect, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon's are holding up well back to 1994. But, the real surprises come with other wines that just aren't as age-able.  For instance, the Napa and Sonoma Zinfandel's are only showing good back to 2007. Russian River Pinot Noir is showing good back to 2007, while a Syrah from the Central Coast of California is only holding up back to 2010.

So, the key point to remember is that only select wines are really age-worth while most others have a relatively short time that they remain drinkable. This is a lesson that a lot of us learn the hard way. We hold on to really nice wines and wait and wait for that special occasion to open them.  But, as I recently learned, I held some too long. And I'll share that story next time. Until then, Cheers!